Island Hopping by Car

by Jens Peters

After criss-crossing the Philippines many times in buses, jeepneys, ships and aircraft, the government’s PR idea of a ‘nautical highway’ struck me as a great way to get a new perspective on things. So I fixed up my trusty old Nissan and was whisked by the Superferry from Manila to Cebu City, where I really enjoyed the variety of resto bars and the hot nightlife at the Crossroads, The Village, and - best of all - the Ayala Entertainment Center. After a short detour to Mactan Island, crossing over the new Marcelo B. Fernan Bridge, and a stopover in Danao, the gun town of the Philippines, I headed for Maya at the northern tip of Cebu, where outriggers leave for Malapascua Island. On a trip around the island I counted no less than 20 white beaches, but it’s at Bounty Beach on the south coast where tourism is already well established. Worth seeing and excellent for snorkelling is the marvellous, tiny Calangaman Island south of Malapascua (one hour by boat).

After visiting some friends in Moalboal, the dive centre on the south-west coast of Cebu, I took the car ferry from Taloot/Argao to Catagbacon on Bohol (two hours). The Chocolate Hills and Panglao Island, both highlights of the province, are easily accessable by car (good roads).

There is only one car ferry a week from Tagbilaran to Dumaguete on Negros (Wednesday at 5 am). If you miss it, as I did, you have to go back to Cebu first and cross over to Negros from Bato to Tampi (eight trips daily, the last car ferry leaves at 11.30 pm, taking only 30 minutes).

In Dumaguete, the atmosphere along the Rizal Boulevard with its excellent international restaurants is very pleasant, especially in the late afternoons and evenings, when people meet for a gossip at this beautifully laid-out promenade south of the pier.

Except for a 23-km stretch of rough road between Basay and Hinoba-an, the coastal road in South Negros is in good condition. In Maluay, about 22 km south of Dumaguete, the lively large Malatapay Market (every Wednesday) is really worth a stopover as is the small Apo Island just a few minutes offshore.

The sleepy town of Sipalay on the south-west coast of Negros has all that it takes to make it a major tourist destination in the near future: Wonderful beaches, scenic coastlines similar to those in northern Palawan, numerous excellent dive sites, and in the hinterland mountains with caves and waterfalls. A handful of beach resorts and some dive shops have already been opened on picturesque Sugar (Langub) Beach and Punta Ballo White Beach.

For the crossing from Bacolod to Iloilo City on Panay, Millennium Shipping is the only shipping line which accepts rolling cargo. They leave Bredco Port, Reclamation Area, daily except Sunday at 4 am and noon, taking 3½ hours. To get out of Iloilo City towards Caticlan is a bit tricky, so if you don’t know your way around, just follow a bus from the Tanza bus terminal in Rizal Street heading for Kalibo or Roxas. Once you’ve made it to the suburbs north of the Jaro River, you won’t get lost any more. Near the jetty in Caticlan there’s a parking lot (P50/day), and beautiful Boracay Island is just a few minutes away.

For getting back with the car from Panay to Manila, the ports of Dumaguit, Roxas and Iloilo City provide regular ferry services. It’s also possible to ship the car unaccompanied and fly the final lap of the trip.

March/April 2003